Geeetech G2S PRO Upgrade and tools
Printer has been upgraded again,
any printer produced later than 15.1.2016 should have new linear bearing holders. Made in injected ABS plastic instead of aluminum. If there is any other difference please comment below.
This post has been inspired by work done by , with his work on list of critical mods. For better long turn support it´s best to update reprap wiki page.
New forum for us
Let's be honest this is one of the cheapest delta printers and on the cheap side of printers in general. It offers a lot of metal parts for the price and parts alone cost a lot more in some areas.
It has to be treated as such, tolerances may vary from part to part.
Carefully check BOM list, i received extra screws for the most part, but some were missing.
Be careful assembling, don't force or over tighten anything. Take it slow, if it doesn't fit don't hesitate to ask.
Remember with delta printer every bit of play gets amplified. It is critical that you have as little play as possible on all the joints,
but they must not "stick".
Check rod arm lengths and adjust if you can/dare
Before attaching heatsinks to the boards, take detailed picture of the board, and position/orientation of the stepper controllers. Version used can be different and voltage setting must be adjusted according to parts used.
Geeetech G2&G2s Pro Assembly instruction: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLODCkot3GriiDS1CVGWfn5wTXEW2gDPrF
in case of MIN/MAX temp error after first start:
If this is your first printer and you bought dual color one, unscrew second nozzle (while hot, once you have confirmed witch one is it) and use it as single hotend. It will be much easier to start.
Most time/nerve consuming process.
some corner cutting can be made in this area, but print quality will suffer and joints will wear out quicker.(Only for single hotend operation)
More time spent in this part less headache while printing.
Specially when moving/heating first time, expect anything (wrong motor might turn,deferent direction than expected,...)
first move manually, single steps to insure all is moving in expected directions, then check operation of endstops manually.
If all works as it should then try auto home (but be ready to pull the plug, or better use e-stop in SW it reacts faster)
basic HW areas:
- bed level
- spider and hotend level
- rod arms (spider tilt when moving)
- setting correct stepper "voltage"
measuring between adjusting screw and GND should be ~1V to start.
Check your stepper controllers for version, shipped ones can be different from originally used.
Look for this...
Could be R200, R100 or R050.
Initial instructions from geeetech recommend ~1V for R100 (initial with release)
my findings with voltage setting on A4988-R200
- bed radius and height
- PID temperature calibration
- extruder direction feed
- movement calibration
- calibration to your specific filament
3D printer calibration:
First get it calibrated and leveled manually, auto-level only compensates for limited variables, and should not be trusted.
For more advanced auto-tune options, there are alternative firmware's available. When using them you must act accordingly (use at own risk, watch settings,...)
One of many calibration objects, this one with lots of info
Dropping spider after print:
this is my end code for slic3r
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
G28 ; home axis
G0 X0 Y0 Z170 ; move bit down
M84 S0 ; hold motors
in combination with FW idle setting in configuration_adv.h:
// Default stepper release if idle. Set to 0 to deactivate.
#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 0
#define SD_FINISHED_STEPPERRELEASE false //if sd support and the file is finished: disable steppers?
You should be drop free for the most part. On some other SW solutions problem persists, for them check under parts (clip).
- lower max temp warning to 245, by def. its set to 275, but it will melt parts at 255, (I noticed liner tube deformation at 245, but i had clogged nozzle at the time).
- re-wire fans for hotend: use always on connector for hotends (from extruder) and leave pwm connector for cooling upgrade
- Use different pulleys for belt top side (current (pro model) were not exactly upgrade form regular g2/s since they eat true bearings, but at least belt doesn't rub)https://plus.google.com/112050613337136711262/posts/ZuhjeukxuqE
- sand a bit off mounts for arm rods or print spacers (this is first where play shows, part that connects spider and rod arms)
- correct time going to idle
level 1 upgrades:
- layer cooling (that PWM connector)
- different hotends
- print plastic parts from non-pro model carriages and spider, for lighter moving parts
- stiffen the frame
put more weight on the bottom of printer to help with taller prints
- custom auto bed level probe
- solution for power draw, bed load seems to be too high for 12V on this board. (upgrade connectors/power cable, move to 24V or power bed separately)
level 2 upgrades:
- stiffen/temp isolated/in-closed print area
- better stepper controllers/board
- lighter arm rods
level 3 upgrades:
- kossel frame
- new guide system instead of linear bearings
- better motors 0.9° step angle
(stepper voltage setting, I can recommend his channel for general printing info)
(repetier firmware settings)
how to search in G+
https://plus.google.com/107443074482981924378/posts/HGtD4MQeqVx%0ASimplify3d guide, useful for all slicers
another S3d guide, useful for all slicers
ATX Power supply
there are numerous printable designs, for problems with feeding filament in tube...
but this one is "no extra parts req."...
DRV8825 stepper drivers
4 linear bearings per tower mods
(for less play on cheap bearings/rods)
Alternative firmware :
Warning, this are "as is" and need to be reconfigured to suit your printer.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/+JasonMcMullan/posts/GKTM6pB5RMe (for non-pro) follow instructions in forum for PRO http://3dprinters.proboards.com/thread/14/repetier-fw-calibration
our community port to 1.10rc3, should be direct replacement for stock.
another marlin port for g2s, but this one hides bit more under the hood :)
Stock plastic parts:
parts for original, first version
For easy access for all, it's best to upload them to Thingiverse. If you don't have/want acc there, I'm sure someone will gladly upload it for you.
another place where some parts can be found
Another filament guide
measuring indicator_mount instead of hotends
Dial Indicator mount for the Geeetech Rostock Mini Delta G2S
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1158973 full case
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1147138 top half cover
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1132758 terminals cover
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1218324 (if you can't hold motors after print)
updated plastic carriage
belt guides for non-pro pulley
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1219732%0AE3D V6 Spider Mounting plate for Geetech G2s Pro
spider for E3D Chimera/3D Cam hotend
Spider for E3D v6 hotends
New even lighter Spider design - Universal
Proximity sensor mount for auto level
alternative manual bed leveling
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:692246 (requires drilling in bottom acrylic plate for bigger holes)
Filament spool holder
Optical endstop mount
Layer cooling solutions:
quickest, but not best fan solution
Same idea but with duct
half modular (use scale) complete solution, but is big
2 in 1 variant with one fan
https://github.com/ezrec/geeetech-g2-mods (Jason's mods)